Assembly Guides

SM32/16mm Kits


32/45mm Chassis

2-Plank Wagon

5-Plank Wagon

Tank Wagon

Coach New SWB

Industrial Chassis

Industrial Flatbed

Industrial Snow Plough

Industrial Brake Van

Tools

I use the following toolkit during cleaning and assembly of parts.


Wire Cutters/Snips (Flush)

Diamond Files

Locking C-Clamp

Clamps

Glue

To assemble these kits you should use a good quality superglue suitable for use on plastic - I currently use the medium viscosity Everbuild glue available in Toolstation.

Regular Humbrol/Airfix/Revell type model kit glue will not work on the PLA plastic these models kits are made from.

Glue Application

I use an application pattern similar to this when affixing large flat pieces together such as the chassis & bed on the industrial wagons or inner & outer side halves.

This allows for a good glue coverage but minimizes the risk of air bubbles being trapped between the surfaces.

Paint

I primarily use Humbrol/Revell enamel paints to complete and detail my model kits although I have recently started to use "Auto Extreme" brand aerosol paints available cheaply in Home Bargains, I find their "Matt" black dries to more of a silk finish and their grey primer is a very agreeable colour for wagons.

Results with acrylic paints can be disappointing (for most applications in my experience) since the plastic is non-porous, although they can be useful for non-permanent weathering.

Preparation

Parts should arrive with their manufacturing supports already removed but will likely need a little cleaning up around the edges. During manufacture the very bottom of the model is pressed against a glass plate for adhesion and will often lead to a slight spreading of the plastic on this layer.

This is easily removed with a sharp craft knife, diamond file or drill. When building a plank wagon kit for example this can be a useful side-effect when assembling the outer and inner faces of each side since you can glue them together then remove the excess to provide a seamless join.

Bearings/Bushings

The model parts are designed so that the bearings/bushings will be a snug fit in the hole and not require gluing in place due to possible glue ingress & contamination especially with such small bearings. The tiniest trace of superglue getting into the bearings will sieze them solid and stall the entire axle. This is extremely difficult to fix in place and often requires replacing the bearing.

The spreading phenomenon described above can be a particular annoyance here as the plastic will slightly enclose the hole.

Step 1.


Using a sharp craft knife or diamond file you can remove the excess material from the lip of the hole and slightly chamfer the entrance.
 
Step 2.


Seat the bearing in the mouth of the hole as level as possible.

As you can see, the hole has been prepared/enlarged so the bearing is snug but not overly tight.
 
Step 3.

Use a set of C-Clamp grips to ensure an even pressure and gently ease the bearings into place.

Be careful! - too much pressure could damage the plastic or the bearing, you can aid the pressing home with a trace of oil if you wish.
 
Step 4.


The bearing face should finish flush with the plastic.


** Important Note **
When first running your models you may find the wheels are sluggish or stiff, this is usually due to a slight misalignment of the bearing/bushing and can easily be fixed by running them for a short time with extra weight added (a full jar/tin of food or a drinks can is often sufficient). This wil allow the metalwork to find its level achieve proper smooth running.

A dot of oil on the brass bushings particularly can be useful to aid with this.

Wheels

The spreading phenomenon once again can pose an issue assembling the wheels. They will need to be prepared before attempting to fit to the axle.

Most diamond file sets contain a round file which is the perfect size (~3mm) to clean out the hole in the centre of the wheel before assembly. A 3mm drill bit can also be used.

Be careful not to affect the alignment of the wheel hole during cleaning, allow whatever tool you use to follow the lead hole - don't force it through.

Once the hole is sufficiently enlarged simply "scuff" a section on the axle using a file (this is to allow the superglue to gain a purchase on the otherwise smooth metal surface), assemble, space and allow to dry.

Wheel Setter Tool

You may receive a "Wheel Setter" tool with your order - this small plastic tool is designed to help setting both the gauge and alignment of the wheels on the axles. It is available in 32mm, 45mm or dual gauges as shown here:



There are marks to align the centre & ends of the different axle lengths for gauge spacing and two risers each side to help with the alignment against the back side of the wheels.

The tolerance is designed for the standard wheel thicknes and is a little generous for the industrial series so don't work the wheels right up hard against both sides - there should be a little slack which will also allow easy removal from the tool.

I recommend getting the wheels onto the axle and trying a dry run first which will allow you to confirm the gauge against your track, then repeat with glue run on the back of the wheel hole (whilst still on the axle - the glue should flow around it) adjust and allow to dry. While the glue is still wet it will lubricate and aid the adjustment until it grabs.

You can apply the glue with the axle set already in the tool if you prefer - the V shapes inside each wheel brace are there to make sure the glue doesn't stick to the tool during assembly.